Collar



Aug. 18. `1.925.

J. l. NORTH 4COLLAR Filed, Feb. 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet l rl Afl.

Patented Aug. 18, i925.A

.TAMES I. non'rrr, orranrmonn, maarmom.

cortan.

Application filed February 3, 1925. Serial No. 8,521,

vTo all whom it may concern.:

Be it known that I, JAMES I. NORTH, a

citizen of the United States of America, ren

siding in the city of Baltimore, State of 6 Marylandyhave invented certain new and useful Improvementsl in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

The invention' relates to a shirt collar which may be attached to the shirt or a Sep- 10 arate attachable collar, the object of the invention. being the production of a collar which. will maintain its shape and have the appearance of a laundered starched collar Without the use of' starch or any equivalent material, thus avoiding the rigidity and discomfort incident to the use of Starch in this connection without sacrificing the neatness, Style and. appearance or' dressiness which goes with a Well-laundered starched collar, and at the same time making it feasible to usein the outside of the HapV and other visible portions of the collar the same ma terial as that of which the Shirt is constructed, a requisite of the present stylesl not met by the Semi-soft collars made of a single thickness of an inherently sti Jfabric.

More particularly the device of the invention comprises a collar having in the flap or band,y a lining or fabric whih possesses sut 3o licient inherent rigidity to maintain the Shape of the collar without the use of starch or other equivalent Sti/fening agent. This material is referred to herein as composed of spun fibres of waterfabsorbent material,

meaning that it isa fabric composed of textile fibres in common use. The fabric referred to having the interwoven multiplef plies So woven as to have the necessary effect in supporting the collar iS not sensitive to 40 moisture in that it does not shrink or become distorted when wet and it is suiciently resilient to cause the collar to regain its shape when distorted.

The Stiiening lining must be a fabric having the necessary degree of Stiness. The two or three ply fabrics which have long been used as the stifening element `in various garments, have been found by this inventor to be very eiective in this capacity.

They impart to the collar the desired degree of Stfness without Starching.

PATENT orner.

ln the accompanying drawing I haveilM l lustrated a collar embodying the 'features of my invention in the preferred form.

In the drawing- Figure 1 is a perspective view of a sepan rate collar made in accordance with the invention.

Figure 2 is a sectional elevation of a collar having vthe stiffening vmaterial in the ip and the section being taken on line 2-2 of Figure 3 is an elevation oi a band of Sti-itching material cut in the pattern to be used in this collar. f

Figure 4- is a Section of a collar having the stiffening lining in the ap and attached to `the shirt.

1be attached or from which it may be separate, being attachable lby. means of Studs according to the particular preference o the trade at the time of manufacture. n the form of collar shown in Figure 2, the band includes a lining 6 of a fabric which is of'suficient rigidity without starch to maintain the Shape and position of the band and hence of the collar when the shirt .iS worn Without the use of Starch or other equivalent Sti'ening agent. This may to advantage be a stiening fabric of a plurality of plies or thicknesses suitably interwoven in accordance with the well-known practice in the production of stiii'ening fabrics. The inner and outer facings 4 and 5 are turned inwardly at the top and bottom. The stiening lining 6 in the form lshown is laid in registration with the outer lfacing 5 and turned ini therewith at both edges I6', 6,

the combined heme 7, 7 at the bottom and the neck ofthe ShirtV 13 inserted between i these hems if it isan attached collar being sewed through and throughby and with the edge seam 7 'which extends along the, bottom circumference of the t the the top edges 8 of the iiap are placed between the inturned edges 8 and 8 of the band facings 4 and :5,'and sewed with a circumferential seam 9 and preferably the enmateriahl The flap 2 comprises 'an inner' and outer4 facing 14, and 15, either or both of which may e plain, the collar being attached vor separate,

and it is shown as 'lined with-a thin fabric 16. It is notregar'ded as necessary to 'stiffen boththe band and the Hap, thestifening in either member being suiicient. In the construction ofthe outer ap, both the inner yfacin 14 'and the outer facing 15 are turned ina ong the bottom circumferential edges and along the front edgel, and

- the lining 16 which overlies or registers with of the shirt 21 being sewed to the outer facinturned edges :of j

the inner facing 14`v is turned in with the inner facing, and Athe inturned edges arey sewed through and through by a bottom and,

front edge seam 1.8. The top edges 8 of the threethicknesses of 'the fabric14, 15, 16 are, as already-stated inserted between the the band andA `sewed through andthrough by the top circumfer ential seam9. L j

The stiiening member 6 of `the band may to advantage be further reinforced b means of. a strip of 'tape 'or other materia 19 ex-v tending along the band and around the circumference of the collar "and stitched thereto by longitudinal seams 20 'extendin along its edo'es. Thisv 'vesadditional sti ness.

In ti re *4 substantially the Isame as thatl illustrated ,particularly in Figure 2, except that the neckband 1 is preferablynot stifened, having its inner facin 4 andfits outer facing 5 of any suitablev abrio which may be the same as that of .the-.shirt with which it is to be used, the lining 2O being of any suitable 'thin material as is the lining 16, Figure 2. `The top and' bottom edges of the neck band are lturned in, the neck or yoke ing of the collar by a seam 22 and the outer facing being then turned up, feet of turning in the edge 7 of the outer facing. The inner facing 4 and the lining 20 are turned in together at 7 and 20 and sewed to the ed e of the neck ofthe shirt 21 by a seam 23. owever, the exact construcof ,the saine material as. the shirt or.

have 'ill1strated a collar having t e stifi'enng in the flap 2 instead ofV in the band 1. This collar is constructed giving the ef- Y tien is not material. At the top the lining 20 is turned in at 20 with the inner facing, the. inturnedportion of which 4isindicated by 8. The outer facing is likewise turned.

in at 8, and the top edges of the flap 2 indicated by 8'are inserted between the two sets of inturned edges and the entire overla ping portion thus described is sewed throng and -through bythe to circumferential seam 9. The ap is forme of an inner fia facing 14 and an outer flap facing 15 which may be of any suitable material, and usually of the same material as that of which the shirt isf constructed, anda stiifening ,lining *26 o anature4 to impart to the outer fiap a suiiicient degree of stiffness to cause it 'to stand up when laundered without starching or equivalent treatment. This may be of fabric ofra plurality of thicknesses or plies suitably interwoven in accordance with the 'well-known practice inv the manufacture of stiiening fabric used in various garments. r. The outer fia `is finished at the bottom at 1 18 in any suitab e manner. The inner facing 14 is first placed in registration with the outer facing 15 and the two sewed together along the bottom edge by the seam 24. As

shown thestiffening `fabric 26 is cut to theshape of the facings 14 and 15 and placed in registrationwiththem, the bottom edges 14', 15 and 26 being turnedin together.

The inner facing 14 is then turned over and all three fabrics having been turned'in at the bottom edge 18, the inturned ortions and the main portion of the fabric ormin six layersare sewed throu h and throng along the bottom edge by t e'seam 18, and

the tc edges inserted in the band as above descri ed.

The details of construction-thus recited may of course be widely varied.` Both forms of collar thus `described maybe made to the best advantage `as to the external portions or facings, of the fabric of the shirt with which theyare to be used vor to which they `are attached, making it feasible to provide in connection with the various shirts of. fabrics either white or colored which are almost universally worn, a collar of the fabric identical with the shirt, which stands u and presents without starching the neat appearance of a starched laundered collar without the discomfort incident to starched l apparel, an advantage which is not incident to the popular unstarched and so-calledsemi-soft collars having the Hap made of a single ply of stiff fabric known as the semisoft collar, as such collars cannot be made of fabric like the shirt. Y

I have thus described specifically and in detail a single embodiment of my invention in lorder that the nature of the same and its use may be clearly understood; however, the specificiterms herein are used descriptively rather than in a limiting sense, the scope of toy secure by Letcauses the collar 'to stand up and retain its,y

without starch, the band being covered shape as to all exposed portions with the material of which the shirt is made, and served through and through with a series of seams placed side by side and extending longitudinally of the neckband and circumferenvtially of the neck of the shirt, the collar also having a flap composed externally of the saine shirting fabric.

2. The `combination in a soft shirt of an attached collar having a resilient inner lining support of multiple-ply textile fabric which causes the collar to stand 11p-and regain and maintain its shape Without starching, the collarbeing Aformed as to substantially all portions of its external surface of a fabric identical with that of the shirt.

3. A shirt collar having a neckband with a lining of a fabric of a plurality of interwoven plies which causes the collar to stand up and retain its` shape without starch, the band being covered as to all exposed portions with a single plyfabric, and sewed through and through with a series of seams placed side by side and extending longitudinally of the neclrband and circumferentially of. the neck opening of the shirt.

Li. The combination with a shirt of soft unstarched material, of al collar having a neckband with a lining of water-absorbent resilient textile fabric formed mainly of spun fibres, which fabric does not shrink` or lose itsshape when Wet and which causes the collar to stand up without starching and to regain its sh'ape when distorted, the band being covered as to all exposed portions with the material of which the shirt is made, and

sewed through and through with a series of lines of stitching placed side by side throughout the entire Width of the band and extending longitudinally of the neck-band and circumferentially of the neck of the shirt, the collar also having a flap composed externally of the same shirting fabric.

Signed by me at Baltimore, Maryland, this 2 day of Februa 1925.

lYAMES I. N ORTH.' 

